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S.P.B.W. |
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The
Society for the Preservation of Beers from the Wood |
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S.P.B.W. |
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The
Society for the Preservation of Beers from the Wood |
LONDON PUB OF THE YEAR 2012: ROGER’S BLOG
Wednesday, 17th
August It’s a grey early evening as I walk up though the City on my way to Grays Inn Road and the first pub, the Calthorpe Arms. I arrive just behind Mike who thus beats me to the bar but is strangely reluctant to buy me a pint. This pub is a regular LPotY nomination and is one of very few on the list to be tied to a brewery. Well, sort of, the Calthorpe is owned by Youngs, which no longer owns a brewery and is reported to be pulling out of its brewing operations at Wells. |
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No idea what this will mean for the existing Youngs beers but it seems that Winter Warmer will be a thing of the past. The Calthorpe offers the usual Ordinary and Special alongside St Austell Tribute and Bath Summer Hare. The Ordinary is fine but not a lot like the classic Youngs beer of old (“now in my day……….”) Mike and I are soon joined by John who consumes a large shepherd’s pie, accompanied by a healthy salad and a less healthy pint. By now it’s tipping down with rain outside and the pub begins to fill with punters eager to get wet inside rather than out. | ||||||||
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The Calthorpe Arms |
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I try the Bath beer which is a
tasty 3.9% brew; it didn’t bring the sun back out but at least the rain
eased off by the time we left.
The Calthorpe Arms is a cosy and friendly community pub and Adrian, the
guvnor, is a fine chap. Beers are well kept and the food is good value.
What more could you want from a pub? Calthorpe Arms, 252 Grays Inn Road, WC1X 8JR |
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| Off we set to pub number two which is barely half a mile away. Despite this, John and Mike jump on a bus for part of a journey. I still beat them to the pub though! The pub in question is the Craft Beer Co in Leather Lane. The pub has only been open in its current incarnation since the beginning of July – it was previously known as the Clock House and was formerly a Charrington house. | |
| You can hardly miss the huge brewery mirror on one wall or the unusual mirrored ceiling up above. The CBC is under the same ownership as the Cask Bar & Kitchen in Pimlico, which was nominated last year. It’s a fairly small pub (but there is another room upstairs) but it offers no less than 16 handpumped ales and some 21 ‘craft’ beers from around the world on tap, not to mention a wide selection of bottled ales. I failed to make a note of the entire beer range but breweries such as Dark Star, Thornbridge and Magic Rock (a new outfit from Huddersfield, I believe) were well represented. There is a house beer, Craft Pale, brewed by the fairly new Kent brewery. |
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The Craft Beer Co. |
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However, it was hardly an
evening for al fresco supping so we moved back inside when the The pub was very busy when
we arrived so we took our beers outside and used a disused market stall as
our table for a while. pub quietened down.We were then joined by Aidan, who
was catching up with the pubs. I’d only visited the CBC
during the afternoon previously when it was fairly quiet, and enjoyed the
place. What the pub needs is a board showing details of all the beers on
tap, as it’s not easy to look over people’s shoulders at a long row of pump
clips. I should mention that the beer is not cheap here, starting at £3.40 a
pint for the lower gravity beers. Should you happen to fancy a ‘craft’ beer
prepare for a shock as these are priced at £4 and upwards – a half! Food is
limited to basic snacks such as pork pies, also not cheap. But the pub seems
to have taken off well and has to be a valuable addition to the capital’s
beer scene. Craft Beer Co, 82 Leather Lane, EC1N 7TR; www.thecraftbeerco.com Leaving Aidan behind to try a further beer or two, the three of us walk down Hatton wall, right down Hatton Garden then left into the tiny passage way leading to the Ye Olde Mitre (look out for the Fuller’s sign). We make our way to the back bar and sort our beer choices. YOM has been owned by Fullers for a few years now but apart from Chiswick brews, there is usually one or two from Adnams and regular guests from small breweries. Tonight there is Wobbly Bob (6.6%) from Phoenix brewery and I did toy with a half to round off the session (purely for research, you understand). | |
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After we sat down with our
beers we were joined by Scotty, the redoubtable mine host of this historic
establishment, a fine character and friendly bloke. Eventually Aidan caught
up with us as well, although there was no sign of Alasdair, Bill or Hugh,
who make up the judging team. The Mitre is a genuine Olde pub, dating from 1546 and is inevitably on the tourist trail. Don’t let this put you off, since this is a pub of rare character. There are two separate bars plus a small ‘side room’ and a function room up some rather steep stairs. Food is limited to snacks such as toasted sandwiches and, hardly surprisingly, the prices reflect the location. YOM is also closed at weekends, except during the Great British Beer Festival (and I found it open one Saturday afternoon when there was a street fair in Hatton Garden). Ye Olde Mitre, 1 Ely Court, Ely Place, Holborn, EC1N 6SJ |
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Ye Olde Mitre | |
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So we’re on our way: three highly contrasting pubs offering some 26 beers under our belts. We’re back on the road in a week’s time. | |
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Wednesday, 24th
August
The second judging session takes over to the west of London, starting in Fulham. For me it’s a lengthy trek across the capital to Parsons Green tube station, from which it’s a five minute walk to our first pub, the Durell Arms. As I approach I note a modern looking frontage with a canopy sheltering those customers who prefer some fresh air – laced with fumes from the traffic on Fulham Road – or to fill their lungs with tar. Inside the pub is done out in the modern café-style, although I note the elegant mouldings on the ceilings, of obviously older vintage. At the bar counter I spy Mike who has just discovered – to his utter incredulity – that the beer is free….yes, gratis, no charge, no strings attach. Naturally I have to order to confirm this happy state of affairs. Why the freebies, you ask? Well, it seems that the pub has the occasional ‘tasting session’ with a happy hour (2 hours in fact) to draw in the freeloaders. The beers on ‘sale’ are Sambrook Wandle, Hogs Back Hop and Adnams Explorer – sorry I’ve no idea if this is a typical selection, let alone the usual price!. |
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After a pleasant ‘conversation’ with Mike I’m just about to open my mouth when we are joined by Nick, the nominator of this establishment, who proceeds to witter on at great length. The combined stereo effect has me looking longingly at the exit, free beer or not. Nevertheless, we repair to the back room (Mike thinks this may once have been a billiards room, given the high, windowed ceiling) where the tasting is going on. A couple of breweries (Ascot and Wandle) plus a Belgian beer supplier, a couple of cider makers and others have stalls where customers can try a small sample of the wares along with a chat. |
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The Durrell Arms |
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The guy from Ascot told me that
he has brewed an Imperial Stout which is currently maturing in rum casks to be
on sale in the winter. Sounds interesting. Eventually Mike and I were joined by
John and Alasdair, then by Hugh who timed his arrival to coincide with the end
of happy hour! I have to say that I was not at all inspired by this pub. The beers were ok but nothing special and the clientele is mostly the young trendy Fulham set. It’s a shame that the Bricklayers Arms, not so far away in Putney, a far better pub, wasn’t nominated. Durell Arms, 704 Fulham Road; www.durellarmsfulham.com Four of us left Hugh behind and headed back to the tube station for the train to Paddington. On arrival we managed to turn the wrong way out of the station, thus rather extending our walk to the next pub, the Cleveland Arms. Along the way we managed to lose Alasdair who, like most of us, was in serious need of bladder relief. Having dashed downstairs in the pub for said relief, I pushed my way to the bar. |
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| Here I discovered Harvey’s Best, Taylor’s Landlord, a session bitter from a major brewer from Suffolk, plus California from the West Coast brewery. This was a new name for us all and I’ve since discovered that the brewery is actually based in Conwy, North Wales. California is the first brew, a 4.4% blonde citrus ale, and quite pleasant too. Shame the same couldn’t be said about the bar staff, who mostly gave the impression they would have preferred to be somewhere else and who were none too skilled at filling a pint glass. The pub itself is a Grade II listed building dating from 1852, somewhat eccentrically decorated, with dart board and pool table in the back room. |
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The Cleveland Arms |
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A tv was showing Arsenal’s progress in European country
and the ‘background’ music was too loud. There is a quiz night on Tuesdays and
John and Mike took advantage of the Wednesday curry club – food and a pint for
£5.25, which seemed like good value. Just before 10 o’clock a somewhat harassed Alasdair swept in, moaning at us for leaving him behind, he’d managed to get lost and was given a bum steer when asking directions in another pub. He was cheered up by meeting an old acquaintance, a charming lady who runs the Shaston Arms, a badger pub in Soho. The Cleveland Arms is basically a friendly community pub, just a quarter of a mile from Paddington (if you go the right way!), recommended if you’re in the area. Shame about the bar staff and the obtrusive music, but it was far and away the best pub of the night! Cleveland Arms, 28 Chilworth Street, Paddington, W2 6PT. We now have a few weeks break, returning to the fray at the end of September. | |
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Wednesday, 28th
September After a 4 week break we return to the fray. In the meantime I’ve spent 3 weeks in California – had a great time, thanks, including much sampling of local craft beers. Back to reality, I’m on a commuter train from London Bridge to Carshalton which, thanks to points problems “in the Mitcham area”, has to go via Wimbledon, giving me a grand tour of parts of south west London I hope I never have to visit again. |
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I arrive at Carshalton 30 minutes late, so it’s just as well I
set out early. From the station it’s just 5 minutes’ walk (right and
then left) to the Hope. Having got served straight away I was
all set to enjoy a well-earned pint when I was accosted by the
character we know as RMR. This heavily-bearded individual is now
involved with the management of the Hope, quite appropriate since
many of us regard him as an absolute bar steward. We engage in
sociable banter for a few minutes before I can make an excuse and
sit down somewhere quiet. |
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The Hope |
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The Hope is a community-owned pub, named after a ship – hence the
proliferation of nautical pictures and memorabilia about the place,
alongside the beery equivalent. This is very much what a good
‘local’ should be and in early evening it was very much bustling
with much conversation, undisturbed by TV or music. The hot weather
had brought out customers in great numbers and RMR confessed to
having his knuckles rapped for not having enough staff working
during the afternoon. Although open-plan the Hope is effectively
divided into a number of drinking areas, with a games room to the
rear as well as a large garden. |
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The main action is in
the larger bar with its scrubbed wooden tables; there is a spacious
patio outside, popular with lung-wreckers. Like the Hope, this pub
encourages conversation; there was background music but at a
sensibly low volume. Service was friendly and efficient and the
beers I tried (the full range in fact, for research purposes) were
all in fine condition. Just don’t come here expecting to eat, as
food is off the menu. Do come here for the beer though. The Sultan, 78 Norman Road, South Wimbledon, SW19 1BT. So that’s half of
the 14 nominated pubs visited so far. Competition is definitely
getting hot. We’re back in action on Sunday. |
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Sunday, 2nd.
October October feels more like flaming July this morning as I slap on the sunblock in preparing for my walk to the mean streets of Hackney. I walk past the football pitches in Victoria Park thinking it would be a much better day for cricket. Moving into Homerton I pass by the Kenton Arms, which is listed in the new GBG. I’m tempted to call in for a quickie but at 12.10 it’s not open yet….. maybe some other time. |
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Eventually, hot and weary, I reach the cool and shady confines of the Pembury Tavern, where I find Mike already ensconced. He proceeds to give me a fascinating and full blown account of his previous day’s activities in the Medway area. He is briefly interrupted when his lunch arrives – he ordered rabbit but even that doesn’t stop him rabbiting on. Before my eyes glaze over I study the beer selection on the bar: 6 from Milton brewery (Minotaur, Dionysus, Pegasus, Sparta, Icarus and Nero), plus 2 guests: Brentwood IPA and Crouch Vale Essex Boys bitter. There is also a Brandy Cask cider, which I chance a half of before leaving. There is a good selection of bottled Belgian and German beers if you’re that way inclined. |
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The Pembury Tavern |
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As I tuck into my
roast pork lunch, John arrives, full of light and joy as ever. The
pub is fairly quiet for a Sunday lunchtime although the tropical
weather may have tempted locals to somewhere more scenic.
Incidentally, although the August riots rampaged in this area, the
Pembury came through totally unscathed. The pub is indeed something
of an oasis in a rather insalubrious area, attracting a mostly
younger, trendier crowd as well as the more mature beer lovers such
as us. It’s easy to get to with two rail stations (Hackney Downs and
Hackney Central) within a few minutes, not to mention numerous bus
routes passing by. |
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| Despite this our bus routes to the next destination involved a walk down Amhurst Road to Mare Street and a five minute wait opposite the Hackney Empire. It’s more than 20 years since I was last inside the Empire, to see Billy Bragg and others perform. We pile on the 277 with much chuntering from Mike as he tries to find a seat. Otherwise it’s an uneventful journey through the ever-trendified bits of Hackney. Alighting (and it’s hot enough for that) by Victoria Park we make our way down Old Ford Road to the Eleanor Arms (as featured in the new GBG!). | |
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We get the usual friendly welcome from Frankie and Lesley, plus daughter Kieley, and we choose from Canterbury Jack, Kent’s Best and Late Gold. This is obviously a Shepherd Neame pub and, although the Faversham beers are by no means my favourite these days, the beers here are always kept in prime condition. Later this week (as I write) a Ginger Porter from Shep’s micro plant will appear. Frankie is an SPBW member who kindly displays our publicity leaflets, so he definitely deserves your custom! As well as beer, he’s also a music lover and live acts regularly appear here; in fact a jazz jam session was planned for that evening. |
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The Eleanor Arms |
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The three of us had no
sooner sat down with our beer than Bill arrived, making his first
appearance on a judging session this year. A little later we were
also graced with the presence of Alasdair, wild and windswept as
ever. A pleasant little session indeed, in a pub which has the
distinction of being the nearest to the Olympic stadium. I’ve no
doubt that the likes of Usain Bolt will pop in for a quick pint
between races next year. |
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Wednesday, 5th
October This is not an official pub visit, but as most of us thought that 3 pubs were too much in one evening, the outlying pub has been cast adrift, so to speak. So I venture, via London Overground, to Hampstead Heath station and work my way through a labyrinth of winding back streets to the Duke of Hamilton. This pub, just off the main drag in Hampstead, has been nominated a few times previously. However, it changed hands earlier this year, having been under the threat of closure, and this is my visit since then. |
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Happy to say that the pub hardly seems to have changed in the meantime. It stands several yards above the street with an outdoor drinking area on the way up. On entry, a long bar counter greets you with drinking areas on three sides. Take a careful look at the bar counter for the leaded lights above and the subtle tiling beneath. In between you’ll see 6 handpumps: on my visit they offered 3 Sharp’s beers: Cornish Coaster, Own and Red (yes, no Doom Bar! Result!), Elgood Cambridge, Adnams Lighthouse and London Pride from Chiswick. The two Cornish offerings I tried were both in good condition and carefully poured by the young Parisienne bar person. |
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The Duke of Hamilton |
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I think that a draught cider is also available; food is taken
more seriously than before, so the web site suggests. There
was very quiet background music and a silent TV, which I guess is a
bit noisier when major sports event occur. There has always been a
sporty element here although a lot of the old cricketana seems to
have gone.
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Wednesday, 12th.
October It’s a dull autumn evening as we go for our penultimate judging session. We start off on what is very familiar territory for me – the Old Fountain, just off City Road. Very handy for Moorfields Eye Hospital and a short walk from Old Street tube station, I have been a fairly regular visitor to the OF for the last few years. Although a fairly plain pub in some ways, it offers a friendly welcome and a good range of well-kept beer. Tonight the options include Salopian Hop Twister, Downton Elderquad, Kent Pale, Hopback Entire Stout, Crouch Vale Cluster and my first choice, Hewitt Urban Gorilla. I’d not heard of Hewitt’s brewery before and it’s not listed in the latest GBG; the brewery’s website is not very informative but gives the impression that it’s a very new enterprise based somewhere in Essex. I didn’t find the beer especially inspiring as it happens. |
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EThe Old Fountain is a
pub of two halves, split level as the original pub was expanded into the
neighbouring building a number of years ago, so that there are two separate bar
counters and a door at each end. The pub has been owned by the Durrant family
since 1964; these days Jim (father) and David (son) are in charge, and a very
good job they do too. There is a dart board (very rare in central London these
days) and a tv which is kept quiet except for major sporting events. The pub is
in a bit of upheaval at present as building work is going on – a roof terrace
will be open and a staircase is being built in one corner – but, apart from
ladies and gents having to share the toilet – business goes on as normal. |
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The Old Fountain |
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The Old Fountain is very
much an ‘after work’ pub (possible why it’s closed at weekends) and
it’s still quite busy when I arrive at about 7.45. I find an empty
table, sit down with my pint and attempt the Guardian crossword, not
too successfully I have to admit. Looking up I see a familiar couple
at the bar – it’s Geraldine and Peter who have ventured over the
river to join the judges. They join me and soon Bill arrives. Our
friendly conversation is interrupted when Mike makes his late and
sweeping entrance. He washes his beer down with a doorstep salt beef
sandwich which fails to interrupt his flow. (I should add here that
Mike belatedly caught up with these ramblings of mine and was
somewhat put out by my suggestions that he is somewhat verbose. In
fact he prattled on about this at some length.) After a quick half,
Bill left for the next pub and was replaced at the table by Aidan,
making a rare appearance. |
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| It was getting time to move on; there was some debate about the best route to the next pub and we decided to use the Northern Line to Bank, then District Line to Embankment (apart from Aidan who went by bus). This proved very efficient and in short order we were strolling up Villiers Street, across the Strand and up to Chandos Place to the Harp. | |
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This excellent pub
should need no introduction to beer lovers in London. It won the
LPotY for 2008 and is the current CAMRA national pub of the year.
It’s renowned for its range of beers and ciders and some of the most
efficient (and friendly) bar service you’ll find anywhere. Bridget
Walsh (known to all as Binnie) is the delightful landlady here; she
bought the pub from Punch Taverns a year or so back so that it’s a
genuine free house. Beers from Dark Star often feature (Hophead and
the wonderful American Pale Ale are on this evening) as does Harveys
Best. There are also a couple of beers from Waen brewery, another
new one on me but it turns out to be from Powys in Wales. |
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The Harp |
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If there’s one
thing that puts people off the Harp it’s that space is often at a
premium. It’s a fairly small, long and narrow pub and it doesn’t
take a lot to fill it up. Given that it’s very close to Charing
Cross station, Trafalgar Square and the theatre district, there is
no lack of punters. There is a small room upstairs where you may
find refuge, but otherwise try pre-lunchtime or mid-afternoon if you
want to appreciate the pub in relative peace. Anyway, despite the
bustle there is a very friendly atmosphere with no distractions of
any kind. I did hear suggestions that Binny may be trying to buy the
lease of the café next door with a view to expanding the Harp. If
this can be done appropriately it may relieve the pressure.
Whatever, I like this pub very much and it’s getting near midnight
(the bar is open until 11.30) when I finally take my leave and head
back to the tube station and home. |
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WEDNESDAY 26 OCTOBER
So here we are in the Dog & Bell for the final reckoning. We have a choice of Dark Star Hophead, Triple fff Alton Pride and Gadd’s Green Hop (as well as the usual Fullers’ stuff) to refresh us during the fraught voting process. Mike, John and I are present and we have proxy votes from Alasdair, Bill and Hugh. We all put forward our ‘best’ pub from the 14 nominations, and
guess what? we’ve all chosen a different pub: Calthorpe Arms, Hope, Old Fountain, Olde Mitre, Royal Oak, Sultan. So we look at second choice votes from those 6 and the Royal Oak emerges as the winner. We start texting round the result when Aidan turns up, defying the doubters who thought he wouldn’t have visited all the pubs. Indeed he had, and he possibly had the casting vote – but he went for yet another pub, the Harp! This meant we had to work out the second round of voting again, after which we ended up with three pubs to vote on: Harp, Olde Mitre, Royal Oak.
The unbearable tension was finally broken when the Royal Oak emerged as the winner.
The judges then crawled to the bar for further pints to cool our fevered brows.
So ended more than two months of judging, 14 pubs, many miles and who knows how many pints. And who cares? The pubs and beer were good and it was great fun as usual. See you next year!
PAST LPOTY WINNERS
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